Card Making Terms to Know

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Card making terms to know — if you’re new to card making, it seems like sometimes people are speaking in another language.  Fussy cut?  Stamping platform?  Dry Embossing?  The list can go on and on, but here are some of the card making terms you’ll most likely come across.

Card Making Terms – What Do They Mean?

Here we go with some of these card making terms to know.  While they may not be exclusively used for making cards, this is how we use the terms.

Card Base:  This is what it sounds like — the base layer of the card.  It’s generally a good idea to make your card base out of some fairly heavyweight card stock.

Card Panel:  Not all cards will have them, but if you choose to create layers on your card, most people will adhere those layers to a card panel that is the size of the finished card, or perhaps a bit smaller if you want some matting-style.  Card panels can be lighter weight than a card base.

Card Sizes:  A7, A7, Slimline….what do all these card sizes mean?  While there are many more sizes, the below are the most popular.

• A2:  The A2 card is 5.5 inches by 4.25 inches in size.  A regular 8.5 x 11 piece of cardstock will yield two A2 card bases or four A2-sized card panels.
• A7:  The A7 card is 7 inches by 5 inches in size.  A regular 8.5 x 11 piece of cardstock will yield one  A7 card bases or two A7-sized card panels.
• Slimline:  This card size is a little more variable, but the typical slimline card will be 3.5 inches by 8.5 inches.
• Mini-slimline:  This card size is around 3.25 inches by 6.25 inches.  More or less.
• Square:  These are what they sounds like — the length and width are the same — for example, 5 inches by 5 inches.  Something to be aware of with square cards if you plan to mail them — they take extra postage (in the United States anyway).

Card Stock Weight:  There is a system for measuring the thickness of paper, based on it’s intended use.  In the world of card making terms, it is usually measured in pounds (lbs).  A lightweight card stock will be somewhere between 55 and 70 lbs, while a good medium weight is 80 lbs.  Heavyweight card stock tends to start at 100 lbs.  If you can only get one weight, the 80 lb is the most versatile as it can be used as a card base, panels, stamped on and used for die cuts.  However, as in life, pounds don’t tell the full story — for that see the term GSM.

GSM:  I believe this is “grams per square meter” and it’s a measure of the true thickness of paper/cardstock.  True story — I was looking for some pearly 8.5 x 11 cardstock on Amazon and saw one that looked lovely, and it was listed as 80 lb.  When I got it, it was more like a thick copy paper.  That’s when I went back to the listing and saw the GSM, which was 118….basically a thick copy paper.  Turns out 80 lb paper is way different from 80 lb cardstock.  When in doubt, look for a GSM listing of at least 176 (65 lb cardstock).  If you want 80 lb cardstock, look for the GSM number of 216.

Stamping:  Nope, not collecting stamps in the traditional sense, but the process of taking a piece of rubber/silicone, inking it up and pressing it to a piece of paper.  (Of course, some people consider stamping to be synonymous with both the process and also collecting lots of stamps, LOL).  😉

Acrylic Block:  In the old days, stamps came glues to a wooden block.  While those are still around, today most stamps are “cling” and so they will adhere to an acrylic block.  The acrylic block acts like the old wooden block, and allows you to put a relatively even pressure when stamping.  (This is a great move in my opinion….since the stamps don’t have a block of wood permanently attached, more stamps can be stored in a given amount of space.  Meaning…more room for more stamps!)

Stamping Platform:  Think of a stamping platform to be like a huge acrylic block, but one where you can easily overstamp an image if you didn’t get a clean impression the first time.  Since the platform holds the paper and stamp in place, you can easily re-ink and re-stamp to get a nice, crisp image.

Examples of some die cuts

Fussy Cut:  This card making term to know is borrowed from the quilting world, where fussy cutting means to cut your pattern so that you can isolate a specific image.  In the word of making cards, it means to cut out a stamped image by carefully cutting around it.  Once the image is cut out, you can use it to layer on a card.

Die Cut:  As you might imagine, fussy cutting can take a fair amount of time if you have a large and/or intricate image.  Many stamps also have coordinating dies, which will also cut out the image in a fraction of the time.  However, for that you will also need a die cutting machine (see the next term).

Die Cutting Machine:  As you might imagine, this is a machine used to die cut stamped images.  Depending on what you need, they can range from around $50 to $200.  Most are around the $100 mark.  They come in various sizes, depending on the “mouth” of the machine (how wide a die it can handle).  Most are either 3″, 6″ or 8.5″.  As you might guess, the larger the machine, the larger the cost.  But for the average person, a 6″ machine will do everything you need.  Sizzix and Spellbinders seem to be the most popular brands, but there are others out there.

Embossing:  This actually can mean a few different processes for embellishing a card.

Examples of Using Embossing Folders

• Dry Embossing:  This uses an embossing folder to make raised patterns on cardstock.  Embossing folders can be “2-D” (all the embossing is at the same height) or “3-D” (the embossing has varying heights).
• Embossing with Powder:  This process is where a sticky ink (usually embossing ink, but can also be a slow-drying pigment ink) is used to stamp the image, and then embossing powder is sprinkled over the image.  The powder will stick to the stamped image.  The excess powder is funneled back to the container, and then a heat gun is used on the stamped image to melt the embossing powder.  This forms a raised image on the cardstock.  Embossing powder comes in many different colors.
• Foil Embossing:  Foil embossing uses a special machine (often called a glimmer machine) that will transfer a foiled image to a card.  This particular technique needs a post all its own to explain it, LOL.  Note, though, that there are ways to foil emboss without using a glimmer machine…and that would also be its own post to describe those.

Dye Inks:  These are inks which are dye-based, meaning they are water-soluble.  When stamped, these generally dry pretty fast.  However, any water spilled on the image will cause it to smear.  Dye inks are great for using with watercolor techniques.  Note, though, that dye based inks are rather transparent, so they don’t show up well on dark cardstock.

Pigment Inks:  These inks are pigment based, and are typically slow-drying.  If you want them to be permanent, heat-set the image.  Easily smudged if you don’t heat set or don’t let them dry long enough.  Most can be used for embossing with powder.  Pigment inks are opaque, so even light shades can be used on dark cardstock.

Oxide or Multi-Media Inks:  These are a hybrid between dye inks and pigment inks, and they have become very popular.  The pigment component allows the ink to be rather opaque, but the dye component can react with water causing interesting special effects.

Are There More?

The above are just the main card making terms to know that you are likely to hear.  I’ll do a “part 2” at some point with other card making terms, because there are indeed more.  Until then — have a great day!